new photos!
Hi again,
New photos have been uploaded at the website .
These cover the last days in Greece and the first days in Italy.
Enjoy!
Email travelog submitted by my niece, Michele, as she travels through Europe.
I'm just posting these. Michele is doing all the writing, photography, and travel. :-)
Nothing to see here, folks! I'ved moved on to Google+ - http://frankgplus.com
Hi again,
New photos have been uploaded at the website .
These cover the last days in Greece and the first days in Italy.
Enjoy!
I've written this so many times in my head that I'm no
longer sure where to begin now that I've finally sat
down at a computer.
The basics:
I'm in Italy. And it's hot. But, as they say, it's
not the heat that gets you....
Since I'm such a fan of backtracking, I should pick up
where I left off: Athens. The previous night was that
great, impromptu concert with Mr. Domingo. The next
day I finally hauled myself up to the Acropolis. I'd
seen it from every angle and figured I should break
down and make the hike. Thursday was insanely hot,
but I just slathered on the Coppertone and made tracks
for the ruins. I was as amazed by the site itself as
I was by the number of people milling about. I hadn't
encountered that big a crowd on the trip, and the
combination of the numbers and the less-than-stable
terrain made the experience a bit of an effort. The
tour groups had it good. The guides explained
everything on the top, their purpose, their history,
etc. For all the groups, I couldn't find one with an
English speaking guide (because I had no qualms about
pretending to be part of a group for the free trivia).
So I kind of milled about and went 'ooh. pretty!'
every now and again.
Later that night I managed to run into a few folks
from the islands group and we decdided to continue our
anti-greek food trend and went out for sushi. It was
great on its own, but it was REALLY great because
there were no olives, feta cheese, or moussaka to be
found. After dinner, we decided to try and find an
movie theater. Hahh.. That proved to be an adventure
and a half. And a totally fruitless one at that. We
gave up after a few hours (we found one place showing
Batman Begins, but that didn't interest any of us) and
decided to meet again the next evening and head
directly for a theater that we knew of that had a sign
advertising Mr and Mrs Smith.
I woke up on Friday thinking that it would be just our
luck to show up for the movie only to find that it
wasn't showing, so I headed to the theater, found out
that, in fact, it wasn't showing for another week, and
then started a quest to find a theater that I could a)
find and b) find again when I got back with our
shrinking group. It took most of the day, but I did
it. The place was a tiny little outdoor theater in
the shadow of the Acropolis (I learned to be less
impressed by this as my time in Athens went
by...everything seems to be in the shadow of the
Acropolis). We found a happy hour before the show and
were in prime form by the time it started. When ice
cold beer is as cheap as ice cold water....
I said goodbye to Athens on Saturday, and made the
quick hop over to Rome. I had arranged to meet up
with my cousin at the airport, and I found her without
any difficulty. What surprised me, however, was that
a different cousin was standing right next to her,
both of them holding 'Michele Summa' signs. Whooops.
They talked amongst themselves for a short bit and it
was decided that I would head off to the country
first. Fine by me. I felt bad for the city-cousin,
mostly becuase her 5 year old was staring at me from
behind some big brown eyes and I couldn't explain to
her that I would be back. And so, I was off with
Gianfranco... a 75-80ish yearold, tiny man with bright
white hair. He was accompanied by his two
grandchildren Edoardo and Viola. (Viola I remembered
hearing about from my grandmother when she had visited
Italy back in 1992. Viola was probaby 3 or 4 at the
time, and my jaw dropped when I realized that the 17
year old in front of me was the chubby bambino from
Grandma's photos.) We made our way to the train
station (already familiar to me from my trip to Athens
from Paris) and left for Forano.
Forano is large by comparison to some of the other
villages in the area, but when compared to any other
city on a map, it's tiny. It's the town of origin for
the (I'm going to butcher this spelling... sorry Dad)
Pazzaglia family. Among the 11-12 Pazzaglia children
was my great grandmother (as well as her famous
sister--the woman who played the dying Italian mother
in Moonstruck). Gianfranco is one of many first
cousins in my grandmother's ginormous generation. So.
Suffice it to say (yeah, why start now?) there's a
lot of people to meet in Forano. And Gianfranco
paraded me around proudly, introducing me as 'the
niece of Billy.' A title that sort of irked me. My
uncle visits there frequently, but my parents have
been there as well. So I just made sure to follow the
introduction with the clarification that I was (more
importantly) the daughter of Donny and Joanne and the
grand daughter of Jeanette. Good enough. I can't say
how many people I was introduced to, and I couldn't
say much to them either. The language barrier threw
me for a loop. Even though I had some key phrases
memorized, and even though I did pretty good at
understanding questions and nodding or shaking my head
in response, I couldn't say much. Call it performance
anxiety.
This is still day one of the adventure, but I must
give the keyboard a break. More will follow in a few
days. Stay tuned. :)
In the meantime, photos from London, Paris, and Greece
have been posted at the website. Check them out. :)
Love,
Michele
As the legend goes:
Greek Reporter covering the 2004 Games:
Have you been to the Acropolis yet?
Shaq:
We've been to a lot of clubs, but I can't remember the
name of all of them.
***
My Greek island adventure ended as calmly as it began.
We did our volcano hike on Santorini, and I took lots
of photos from the middle of the caldera. We survived
the walk down the donkey trail, easily breaking my
streak of avoiding donkey-doo (it's hard to avoid when
it covers the entire sidewalk). I was wrong with the
number of steps. I said 582, but it was 588... I only
know this becuase they're labeled on the way back up.
Not that I even considered walking back up, but at one
point I did turn to look back and saw little white
numbers on each of the steps.
As volcanos go, Santorini's was neat. Lots of rocks,
big and little, up hill trails and down hill trails.
It only took about 30 minutes to reach the top, then
we had a look around before returning to our boat.
From there, we circled around the volcano island and
dropped anchor near one of Santorini's other islands
for a quick swim to a thermal spring. Nothing quite
like diving off of a boat into blue-green water and
swimming until it warmed to the temperature of a balmy
bath. We sloshed around in the mud, exfoliating with
the little chunks of volcanic rock, and trying to
one-up each other withthe amount of mud we could
slather onto ourselves. The swim back to the boat was
enough to remove the mud, and it was also enough to
shock our bodies with the colder water (what goes up
must come down). After the adventure, it was a crepe
lunch and then a rest by the pool before returning to
Oia for another sunset picnic.
The next day (Monday, I think) we caught the ferry to
Naxos which is the one "real" island we went to. It's
far less touristy than the others and is the only
Greek island with a stop light. We spent one of our
days walking around the shops, and both nights
enjoying good food and cheap drinks (one place we went
to had a nine-hour happy hour, but we only stayed for 2).
On Wednesday, we returned to Athens after a sweltering
5-hour ferry ride (we should have sat elsewhere on the
boat). Our group scattered a bit, but decided to meet
up for dinner. From dinner, we took an evening stroll
around Plaka, the district of Athens that sits at the
base of the Acropolis. Some of the crew had flights
today, and wanted one more chance for photos of the
Acropolis at night, so we wandered back up towards it.
To our surprise, the roads just below the site were
packed with cars, and really nice ones at that. The
closer we got, the more we could hear singing and
clapping coming from behind the walls of the Greek
theater (where Yanni did his "Live at the Acropolis"
thing a few years back). Lots of people were milling
about outside the gates, listening to the opera, so we
joined them for a bit, imagining the costumes and
performances that were just on the other side of the
wall. Tash (our new guide) laughed and said,
"Wouldn't it be funny if it was Pavoratti singing, and
we were just sitting here listening for free." That
got me wondering, so I took a wander around the
grounds until I found a sign listing all of the summer
performances. It wasn't Pavoratti, but it was Placido
Domingo. :) And it was fantastic.
We stayed through intermission, and had a blast
watching all of Greek stars (most with surgically
altered bodies) walk outside for a smoke and a smile
for the paparazzi. Of course we had no idea who any
of them were, but they were glammed up enough for us
to have lots of fun a la Joan and Melissa Rivers at
the Oscars.
Today I finally hauled my cookies to the top of the
Acropolis and had a look around. Absolutely amazing.
Unfortunately, and fortunately, it's in the process of
being restored, so scaffolding was as prominent as the
marble. And it was packed... PACKED... with tour
groups. The people watching was as entertaining as
the sights were interesting.
Not sure how I'm going to spend the rest of my two
days here. I'm sure I'll resume my quest for getting
lost again.
I sent a bunch of pictures home, and they will soon be
posted at www.michelesumma.com. (We knew it was only
a matter of time, right?) Thanks heaps to my Uncle
Frank for posting each of my "reports" as well as
photos from the trip and some graduation photos as
well. Peruse at your leisure. :)
Love to all,
Michele
Forget Austria because the hills are truly alive on
Santorini. Holy cow. And I haven't even done the
volcano hike organized by our tour guides yet. That's
tomorrow (Sunday) and it starts with a casual walk
down 582 steps. We have the option of walking back up
(yeah, right), taking a donkey (too mean... the ass I
save could be my own), or riding in a little
gondola/skyride thing. I have a feeling I'll have to
put aside my growing fear of ascending over sheer
cliffs otherwise live at the port and beg someone to
bring my luggage to the boat the day after. But why
am I spending so much time writing about something I
haven't even done yet?? I don't know either.
Last you heard, I was on Paros, and I had made the
choice to stay with my group instead of hanging back.
So far (and I know I haven't been traveling THAT long)
it's been the best decision I've made. We got to Ios
after another long ferry ride, and checked into our
campsite around 5 p.m. We were supposed to spend the
afternoon on the water (our guides had arranged for us
to rent kayaks and be pulled around on tubes behind
ski boats), but we were all too wiped out for that.
My little 8euro bungalow was great. Three of us
shared it, and it was kind of like living in a sugar
bowl. Pure white on the inside (it's the Greek
island-way it seems) and completely round. We rested
up, took "disco naps" and then headed over to the
restaurant next door for our group dinner. We stayed
at a place called Far Out camping, which is basically
a daytime crash pad for all the people who go out and
live it up at night. Ios has earned its reputation as
a party island, that's for sure.
Our first night out was a blast. We started out at a
place called The Fun Pub (appropriate) and then
migrated up to the square for a little barhopping and
(for some) bar dancing. The rest of us were content
to keep our feet on the totally packed dancefloor. I
can't imagine Ios at the peak of the travel season.
It was hard enough to walk through the narrow streets
(two people walking side by side would struggle) at
this point. Matty, one of the doormen I met told me
that sometimes it takes over half an hour to walk
across the square (which is probably about 50 yards).
It was nuts, but so incredibly fun. Night #1 ended at
5 a.m., which I didn't think I could possibly top, but
I managed when I got home at 6 a.m. the next morning.
Time stops on Ios, and (as one of the older, wiser
travelers in our group) I knew enough to make the fun
out of dancing, not drinking. I'm not getting
preachy, but let's just say that on the second night,
one of the guys spent 150Eu on drinks, while I managed
to have as much fun (and remember it) with a 2Eu beer
and a few free shots. :) Still, it was fun to tell
that 6'5" aussie guy what a dork he'd been.
The days on Ios were spent belly up at the pool or on
the beach (except for the second day when we finally
got our tube ride). That afternoon was spent hanging
on for dear life. I crashed and burned a few times,
and had to bail out intentionally at one point when I
felt the bottom of my swim suit somewhere down by my
knees. Whoops. ;)
Our happy group finally disbanded on the third day in
Ios. Some had only signed on for the three island
tour (a three island tour... thank you, I'll be here
all week) and so we lost a few who were heading back
to Athens that morning. A bit later, all but six of
us headed for the ferry to Santorini. I think that
was my favorite day, not because we lost the people,
but because about 85% of our group just spent the day
sitting around talking to each other, grazing on meals
at times, reliving some memories (and being reminded
of others better left unremembered). At that point,
after too much singing and dancing, I had no voice,
but I wasn't the only one. Our guide Renee lost hers
as well (natch, we were the only ones to last until 6
a.m.). We were quite a pair.
But they left, and I think I went to bed at 10 that
night and slept straight through until 10 the next
morning. The next group arrived that day, and it was
time to start all over again. But I only lasted until
3. My lost voice evolved into a sore throat which got
pretty cozy with my already bad cough, and by the time
I got here to Santorini four days ago, I was in pretty
bad shape. So while the new group went on their
volcano hike, I went to a pharmacy to get another
bottle of the syrup I'd gotten on Mykonos (even though
it didn't do the trick). But the pharmacist heard me
cough and sent me to the doctor. Bronchitis. Yippe.
Greek drugs and a day in bed with a really good book
helped.
Santorini. I don't even really know where to begin.
When I stepped off the boat, I thought I was going to
get vertigo from looking up at the cliff wall
(rememeber the donkey option from earlier?). At the
port, it feels like being at the bottom of the grand
canyon. And all along the cliffs, almost like snow
caps, are these tiny little villages. It's beautiful.
On our second night, we set out for Oia on the
western tip of the island and watched a pretty amazing
sunset. We all stocked up on picnic supplies, and
just sat there eating and watching the sun go down and
the moon come up. It was great, but we spent a little
too much time hanging out afterwards and literally had
to do a 100-yard dash to catch the bus back. (Thanks
to our new guide, Belinda, who chased the bus down and
got the driver to stop while the rest of us raced to
catch up.) I opted for a quiet night (way too into
the book at that point) while the others went out for
a much tamer night on the town than Ios offered.
The next day (Thursday), the four of us from the
original group moved hotels when the second group
departed for their fifth island. (The group thing:
every Sunday and Thursday a tour group leaves Athens
for 2 nights on each of the 3 or 5 islands. When you
opt to stay longer, as I did on both Santorini and
Ios, you can wait for the next group to come through
or catch the ferry on your own.) Anyhoo, our
"organized" hotel was a bit pricey, so we moved into
the center of town to a place that was half the price
of the other. Location, location, location... a few
less hills to climb. Our now-foursome set out in
different directions, exploring on our own. Lots of
cool jewelry, crafts, leather, and other random art
shops. We gathered back again intime for dinner, but
it wound up being a quiet night as the rest of them
were still trying to recover from the night before.
Yesterday, we all kicked in 7Eu and rented a car for
the day and went all over the place. But not before a
hearty breakfast at Mama's Place. Whoa, Mama. Mama's
a little 70-something grandmother who actually used to
live in San Jose and work at SFO. But she's here now
and she is a kick in the pants. She's a spitfire with
a potty mouth and greeted us with a very loud "Hey you
Sexy Buns!" as we walked into her restaurant. She
cursed a blue streak in the kitchen, but cooked and
served us a huge, American-style breakfast.
From there we covered every bit of Santorini. We saw
ancient cities that were in the process of being
excavated. We went to red sand beaches and black sand
beaches, saw the island from its highest point
(willing our little car to make it up there). It was
great. Pictures will come eventually. After a day of
driving around and soaking up even more sunshine, we
landed at a little pub that served the coldest and
cheapest beer I've had so far. 1.50 for half a liter
of frrrrrrrosty Amstel. It was pretty close to
heaven. Eventually, we got back to the hotel, and
cleaned up for another night out. That was pretty
uneventful, and as I write this, my cohorts are
sleeping off the effects and probably quite hungover.
I'm about to catch a bus back to the west end of the
island to check it out and have a day to myself.
Togetherness is wearing me out. The next group
arrives tonight, and I'm looking forward to getting
some new people to spend time with.
After Santorini, it's onto Naxos for 2 nights, and
then Athens for a few days before I fly to Rome to
spend a few weeks with various family members. Time
to learn a new language. :)
Before I go (the counter is ticking down) a few
statistics:
Books read - 5 (The Dirt--Motley Crue, Citizen
Girl--Emma Kaufmann, The Butterfly House--Someone
Sucky, Valhalla Rising--that was the one I couldn't
put down--Clive Cussler, and Paradise House--Someone
Schmaltzy)
Gyros eaten - 4
Olives eaten - 64 (that's just a guess, but it's
probably not far off)
Donkey bombs successfully avoided - countless
Donkey bomb failures - NONE! (that jinxes me for the
day)
:)
Time's about up. Love to you all!
Michele